Monday, March 24, 2014

Safari Pictures from up North

Becky's parents are visiting, so we've been able to do some traveling with them!  We stayed at Khama Rhino Sanctuary, the Okavango River Lodge, and Planet Baobab.  We saw lots of animals, so here are a few pictures to give you a taste.  Come visit us sometime, and we'll make sure you see them in person!

Impala, Botswana, Khama Rhino Sanctuary
Baby Impala 
Our Guide brought the animals to us…by hand.

Khama Rhino Sanctuary, Peace Corps, Botswana
While we were playing with the turtle, the rhino decided to come check us.

Gemsbok, Botswana
Gemsbok/Oryx (I think they have face paint on)

Zebra, Botswana
This zebra wanted a new Facebook profile pic.

Giraffe, Botswana, Safari, Peace Corps
Lots of Giraffe, figured we'd take the stereotypical safari picture.

Botswana, Peace Corps, NCAA Bracket, March Madness, Hornbill
This Franklin was interested in helping Becky fill out her bracket for March Madness.

Hornbill, Windshield, Botswana, Peace Corps
The Hornbills are very vain.

David Hartnett, Biologist, Savannah, Grassland, Ecology, Giraffe, Safari, Khama Rhino Sanctuary
Dave on a typical workday, digging up grass.  Boring, but it's his life...

Khama Rhino Sanctuary, Botswana
A few of the many rhino.  So many animals, it's impossible not to have other variety in the background!

Okavango Delta, Botswana, Peace Corps, Monitor
This monitor lizard (~4 feet long) lived right by our tent at the lodge.  He liked to sprint past us when we weren't watching.

We took a flight above the delta to view game from the air.  Our cruising altitude was 500 feet.  Saw lots of animals, and was a great experience.

Becky and I volunteered to be bait for the crocs, the water was great and very clear.

Our Pilot posed with us in front of his plane, after the flight.

Baobab trees, Planet Baobab, Botswana, Peace Corps
A cluster of 4 Baobab trees.  These things are huge, and very old.   The oldest one in Botswana is 5000 years old.

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Life is Beautiful

Someone suggested a few pictures of normal work life, but we realized that Owen's work in the IDCC can be pretty sensitive since this room caters to HIV positive patients. The same discretion applies to his work in home-based care (called palliative care here in Botswana and hospice care in the States). We'll keep working on the request. Maybe we'll try for some pictures when the place is empty. In the meantime, enjoy a few pictures from our walks around our home! The first person to identify the plant and the bird wins the grand prize.*









*The grand prize is our deepest admiration and respect.


Monday, February 24, 2014

Bungee Chords


Maybe I had it coming since I was a bungee chord girl. Katie and I used to lie in bed with our sheets rigged up to our bookshelves and curtain rods, much like how we had to hang our mosquito net during homestay in Serowe. When Katie and I stepped out of this army tent where we role-played wartime reporters, we pulled up to our shelf-converted-to-sound-board and slipped on our headsets to start our morning radio show. Life has never been simple for me and I have never figured out if I am jealous of, or totally opposite of, people who know and like one thing, they study that one thing, they get a job in that one thing, they get married, buy a house, they have babies. They just do the next thing that makes sense. I love and am intrigued by so many things, that maybe I was bound for a little wanderlust, and a few seasons of life where bungee chords are the only thing holding it all together.

If you could only see some of the ways we figure out systems to make the oddest things work. We have running water 3 to 4 days out of the week on average. That’s more complicated than simply not having water, where you have a pit latrine and you’re not trying to dump 2 buckets (that’s a lot) each time you flush a modern toilet. But, its also a luxury to be able to expect it back on within a few days if it goes out in the middle of doing laundry or washing your hair. We squirrel away 2 liter bottles, we have buckets of gray water and rainwater, and we have a kind neighbor with a pit latrine: we make it work. Its one of the ways in which answering questions is a bit complicated here. Do you have water and electricity? Ummm…on a scale of one to ten, our water situation is about a 7. We’re happy with it. You?

Answering the question of how we like it here is, and probably always has been, the most complicated of questions. By American standards, every day is really frustrating, but there is a way to let go of frustration, while still being in the same frustrating situation. On the one hand, God has made it clear as glass that this is the place for us- that there is a need and we GET to be a part of His work here. He’s also given me a quirky LOVE for the people and the culture here- even when the secrecy and the focus on women’s bodies infuriates me to no end. It’s not that different from the clarity that we felt about life in Manhattan while we were there. We had an incredible niche and a deep love for being among family and special friends there. America is a wonderful and comfortable place to be sometimes, even when the greed and the complacency infuriates me to no end. Get it? Yes, its culture, but not all of it is great…anywhere.

So, are we struggling or thriving? Here’s the other hand: I came back here because of God’s plans, but some of those plans were my own too. I had few expectations, but I also have a lot of memories. There really is nothing like returning to a place to “find the way in which you yourself has changed” (Mandela), or to find that it’s hardly even the same place. It is hard being this close to Old Naledi and the Tlamelo project, which is struggling in ways that I feel I could help with if only I had a car, was not in the Peace Corps, didn’t have a different job, or was ok with “fixing” something that is not my place to fix. Its hard knowing that grassroots missions in direct contact with hurting people is there, but I am stuck in a bureaucratic office where very little gets done. But, that’s also not true. There are hurting people in my office. There is also something to be said for foreigners not building their own thing, but trying to help strengthen the people and frameworks that already exist, so that they are better off and can do more on their own.

I am struggling in my office. I think I was placed in this position because I “have experience with statistics.” Dr. Goe would be appalled that what I am actually doing would ever be labeled as “statistics.” I came in to analyze and help give feedback to the communities on the data collected in the Monitoring and Evaluation department, but I might not get to that point because it would be putting the cart before the horse. This is something that even the people I work for might not understand, so its a constant lesson in not meeting people's expectations, and being ok with that (Not my strength). A few examples…

-Perhaps one of the most important pieces of information gleaned from health data is how many people died and of what.  Diarrhea with blood, for example, can indicate an easily fixable sanitation issue. This is hard to locate because one of the major hospitals in our district started as a private mission hospital and often refuses to cooperate in reporting to the district. The other clinics are often unreachable by phone, and of course, there is no transport.

-In December, most of the data was lost because people didn’t know about the “save as” function, so all the December reports were saved over with January data. I spent a week trying to convey the importance of “save as” and labeling our data with the correct dates.

-After the last M&E officer left, he left a computer full of documents titled “name of facility,” because those were the first words in the document, hence the default filename. I spent many days opening every document, renaming it, and organizing it into folders.

-While showing a head nurse how to report the number of children dying in our district and from what, Owen discovered that computer work was keeping her away from her other work because she didn’t know how to type. So, Owen spends his afternoons teaching typing. One of the biggest breakthroughs: learning that you can use “shift” instead of “caps lock” to capitalize the first words of your sentences. It is amazing how much time that saves.

-Almost every morning when I arrive, nothing can be done until I have finished with the morning several hour meeting, figured out how to expunge new viruses from the only computer that keeps medical records for the district (which also happens to be the computer that people plug their phones into to charge or download music), and I have reconfigured the electrical outlets with duct tape and a mess of chords in an attempt to keep my monitor on.

All of this is a struggle. So yes, we are struggling. But, I think if you look closely, it is also right to be here. “Save as” might be a tiny baby step, but its also kind of a big deal.

So that’s work. What about life in the community? My friend, Heidi, always says it’s the little things that matter, and when you’re not listening to God, you don’t catch them. So, one of my grand (non) expectations for coming back, especially with the Peace Corps, was to finally become fluent in Setswana. Peace Corps was rumored to have some of the best language training you can get.  The rumors were correct. Meshack, and his team of LCFs (Language and Cultural Facilitators) were excellent in improving our conversational, work-related, and HIV/AIDS related Setswana. Still, once we left training, we became integrated in a much more complex environment. The doctors at my DHMT are from Tanzania and Zimbabwe. Some speak no Setswana at all, and I am dusting off my Swahili. The boys we hang out with at home are Kalanga and English speakers. We have been blessed with friendships, but they are diverse and complex, and not at all like what I imagined cultural integration would look like or what it has looked like to me before. We are in a village (which seems TOTALLY more “African” than the city), but we run in government circles more now than before, and integrating with our coworkers is almost a different culture than integrating with our neighbors. And what about those neighbors? We have Moses and Wendy who hold high-powered jobs in Gaborone, and who lived in Soweto through the uprisings in the 1970s and 80s, and we also have Mma go Sadi, who has never left Ramotswa. She lives in a one-room cinder block with her family and enjoys a good chat while hanging out the laundry.

Life is messy, it’s confusing, we struggle, we make it work, we rig something with bungee chords. It’s alright.

Sunday, February 23, 2014

Before and After

Botswana sand is pretty amazing at destroying shoes and other things. It turns out, Grandma Carnes was right about all the walking too (although we will drive you around if you come to visit!) So, here is our homage to the things nearing retirement.
Uncle Nolan's hat has experienced a lot of love and a lot of sun.

Believe it or not, these Tevas were black just a few months ago.

Thanks Mom and Dad for the new sandals!


Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Valentine's Day

Fun with Frosting

Valentine Cookies for Life Line Youth Group

Trying to hitchhike into Gaborone for a Valentine's date.

Yep.

Sunday, February 2, 2014

South East Sports Association for the Disabled

This organization offers services and recreation for people living with disabilities in and around Ramotswa. The garden project is a way for those who are unemployed to support themselves by selling the produce. This Friday, a group of healthcare workers came out to the farm to help out. We cleared a field for planting, weeded, and worked on leveling an adjacent area to put in a cement slab for wheelchair basketball and tennis.

"Stompie" (The head matron at Owen's clinic) and Owen made a great team, with an even greater height discrepancy.

The whole group. The man kneeling in the front left is Moffat (director of disability services), one of the people Becky works with at DHMT. The man in the wheelchair in the front right is David, aka "Rre Martin Luther King". He is the director of SESAD. He has an amazing story, partially captured in an interview, which I will try to post after I can translate it.

Friday, January 10, 2014

3 Easy Baked Butternut Recipes

Squash, squash, squash. It’s cheap, nutritious, easy to make, and very plentiful here: butternut, pumpkin, and gem squash (which is a little bit like acorn squash). If you make the following baked butternut, you can mash it and serve it alongside paleche for a healthier alternative to the traditional side, make it into pancakes, pasta sauce, or just grab a spoon and eat it out of the shell. Maybe it’s my Native American heritage, but I really like to use the whole thing: roast the seeds alongside, and then salt and bake the skins afterward for an extra little crunch. You can also make pumpkin or gem in the same way, but I don’t think the skins are edible…I guess you can let me know on that one J


Baked Butternut
2 small butternut squash (substitutes: pumpkin, gem, or acorn)
Olive oil
Salt
Pepper
Cinnamon

Halve the butternuts, scoop out the seeds, and separate the seeds from the stringy parts. Generously salt and pepper the halves and the seeds. Generously sprinkle cinnamon on the insides of the squash. Place halves cut side down on a cookie sheet that has been greased with olive oil. Spread seeds on one end of the cookie sheet that will face the oven door. Bake for 20-30 minutes in 190C oven. (Note: if you use larger squash you will need to bake longer and remove the seeds early, as they turn brown). When the outside skin starts to wrinkle- it’s done!

Butternut Pancakes

1 egg
3/4 c. buttermilk
2 T. oil
½ c. baked butternut
½ c. whole-wheat flour
½ c. white flour
1 t. baking soda
1 t. baking powder
½ t. salt

Whisk together the egg, buttermilk, and oil. Smash the butternut into the mixture. Add flours, soda, powder, and salt. Stir just until moistened. Cook with a drop of oil on a hot griddle. (Note: the basis for this recipe comes from the whole wheat pancake recipe in "More with Less")

Butternut Primavera Sauce
½ onion (diced)
1 t. olive oil
2 cloves garlic (smashed)
1 small can tomato paste
1 to 1 ½ c. chicken stock
1 t. oregano
1 c. diced baked butternut
1 c. shredded spinach
Salt
Pepper

Saute onion and garlic in oil over low heat (Use a small splash of chicken stock to deglaze the pan if it starts to burn). When onion turns golden, add tomato paste and cook until aromatic. Slowly add chicken stock and simmer until thickened. Add oregano, butternut, and spinach. Let simmer. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve over any kind of pasta.